OhCripes.com

Up until last week I was the proud owner of a 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada. This is basically a loaded S10 Blazer. I had to begrudgenly sell it due to my job being relocated over a 100 miles away and my decision to commute for a while. Yes I know that’s crazy, I bought a 98 Jetta tdi to replace it as the mileage is easier on my wallet. So I sold the Bravada to a friend from work but before selling it I had to repair/replace a few things to bring it up to what he considered acceptable condition. One Major part that had to be replaced was the turn signal module which controls the signals (obviously) along with the cruise, wipers, hazards and high low beams. As I had discovered over a year ago these things have been faulty on nearly all S10 style models made by GM for a span of several years from 98 on. All the functions of the switch operate, however from time to time the turn signal flasher will sound. Sometimes it will buzz like a deck of cards in bycycle wheel spokes and others it will sound as though it has been turned on. The lights are unaffected by the short or whatever is faulty in the switch. That’s the primary reason it took me over a year and selling it for me to replace the stupid thing. It is also a $200 part for my model and an Extreme pain in the ass to replace as I discovered. GM should have a full recall on all of these switches but with their current financial situation what do you think the odds of that happening are?!

I did not get nearly as many pictures as I would have liked to which always seems to be the case with my projects. I offer these merely as a glimpse at what I went through to replace it and not as a how-to. If I had to do it again I would most likely take it in to a mechanic.

At the very least you will need a 7mm socket, a set of torx wrenches I believe the exact size that I used was a T20, and an E4 female torx socket (needed to remove 1 male head torx screw from the top steering column shield) I substituted a needle nose vise grips and strongly reccomend the socket. I bought the replacement switch from http://www.oldsmobile-parts-for-less.com/ Real nice folks. They will need the VIN to ensure that you are getting the correct switch.

First I had to make sure the air bag wouldn’t blow up in my face. I did this by removing the fuse which was listed on the fuse access panel back.

Then I removed the connector from the negative battery terminal.

This is a shot of one covered screw un the steering column. Pop the cover out with a thin screwdriver or knife then remove the screw with the socket.

There are a few screws on the under side of the steering column shroud that need to be removed. All of the advice I found online and in repair manuals stated I had to remove the steering column and also the column tilt lever. I did neither. Once removing all the screws it just required some “persuasion” to get the bottome shield twisted off the tilt lever.

This is just a shot of one of the many screws in its happy native habitat. It’s not too late to take it to a professional!

This little guy is one of two that was hiding up under the wheel which was holding in another shield that had to be loosened in order to get at the top shield.

I’m not sure why I felt it was necesary to take a picture of this but here is a shot of the only covered screw on the column underside.

Removing yet some more screws.

Here I have managed to pry the bottom cover loose.

Here I have liberated the hand scratcher shield.

Again, I have no idea, pictures of screws. Why not?

Bottom column shield completely removed. With all the creative twists and rotating involved to remove that guy you would think I would be an Ace at the rubiks cube!

As you can see in this picture I next removed the top shield. After taking out all visible screws it still seemed to be hung up in the area around the ignition switch. After looking and prying around for what seemed like an hour I noticed a small torx head protruding from the aluminum on the ignition switch. It was a male torx head and this is where the vise grips came into play after wasting a good hour and a half or more chasing around town trying to find a bit to remove the stinking thing. I did find a bit at Checker auto parts however it was part of a $50 set of miscellaneous tools. It was an E4 as was labeled by that tool set manufacturer. It may be completely different in your truck. Hopefully you’re lucky enough to have a standard female head torx. Also you will notice I have removed the faulty switch from the column by removing two torx screws top and bottom side.

After removing the switch I then played contortionist and wiggled my way up underneath the dash. Once there I removed the block that the switch plugs in to and also unplugged the switch. The block can be removed by unscrewing yet another 7mm screw. I also cut all the cable ties off from the wiring harness so that the tangled mess could be less of one.

Here is the connector that the switch plugs into.

New switch and old switch removed.

New switch ready to be installed.

Switch harness connectors slide into the harness block. They can only be installed in one way.

Screwed in place.

Wow, just like magic it’s all back together. Like I said earlier I didn’t get quite as many pictures as I had hoped. reassemble in reverse order and everything will be ok.